Inter-Agency
Committee on Marine Science and Technology
UK
Marine Waters 2004 - Marine Processes & Climate
Summary of changes and trends
The North Sea has both southerly and northerly offshore sediment
transport - northerly transport in the central eastern regions
of the southern North Sea, southerly transport nearer the UK
coast and several areas of variation in the northern North Sea.
The nearshore transport is predominantly southerly on N-S orientated
sections and westerly on E-W orientated sections.
The English Channel has both westerly and easterly offshore
sediment transport. The nearshore transport is predominantly
easterly, with some reversals in the lee of headlands.
The Celtic Sea has a variable offshore sediment transport.
The nearshore transport is predominantly northerly on the N-S
orientated coasts and easterly on E-W orientated coasts.
The Irish Sea has southerly and south-westerly offshore sediment
transport on the North Wales coast south of the Lleyn Peninsula
and northerly and north easterly offshore transport north of
the Lleyn Penisula (Bardsey Sound). The nearshore transport is
predominantly northerly on the N-S orientated sections of the
coast and easterly on E-W orientated sections.
Turbidity (water clarity) in the Menai Straits (Irish Sea)
deteriorated from the mid 1960s to the late 1980s.
There was no overall trend turbidity in the Irish Sea between
1987 and 1997.
1. Introduction
This
chapter deals with the transport of sediment formed from mineral
particles and does not consider the other two components
of ‘suspended particulate matter’ (SPM): living plankton
and phyto-detritus. (Plankton are considered in the Sector Report
on Marine Fisheries). However, ‘turbidity’ is included
and is a measure of the amount of SPM in the water, including
organic and inorganic material, which results in the scattering
and absorption of light rays and hence affects water ‘clarity’.
Light is scattered mainly by mineral suspended solids, whereas
light is absorbed by mineral suspended solids, chlorophyll and
the water itself (Bowers et al., 2002).
Major
sources of data and information for this chapter are the Futurecoast
report and the Southern North Sea Sediment Transport
Study Phase 2 (SNS2).
The
Futurecoast study was commissioned by Defra and carried out by
a team led by Halcrow Group Ltd. The study provides predictions
of coastal evolutionary tendencies over the next century, based
on the use of data sets, information and experience of coastal
systems. The output from the study is available on an interactive
CD (Defra, 2002) and includes reports, guidance, data and mapping
at various scales.
The SNS2 (HR, 2002) was designed to provide the broad appreciation
and detailed understanding of sediment transport between Flamborough
Head and the North Foreland. The study was undertaken between 2000
and 2002 by a consortium comprising of HR Wallingford, CEFAS Lowestoft
Laboratory and UEA Norwich, Posford Haskoning and independent consultant
Dr Brian D'Olier. It built on the earlier Phase 1 study completed
in 1996 (ABP 1996).
Other useful review sources are the Strategic
Environmental Assessment documents and reports produced by the
Department of Trade and Industry (DTI, 2004) for parts of the North
Sea, English Channel/Celtic Sea, Irish Sea and the Western Approaches.
1.1
The significance of sediments
Sedimentary processes
affect the coastal and marine environment in a variety of ways:
the
evolution of the coast, the foreshore and the seabed.
Any net erosion or accumulation has consequences for
the
management of the coastline and of coastal and offshore
sediment assets (see the chapter on “Changing coast and seabed”).
The Foresight Flood and Coastal Defence Project (OST, 2003)
has identified the role of sediments in coastal dynamics
as a main ‘driver’ in changing the risk
of coastal flooding around the UK coast.
the transport of contaminants. Fine sediment particles
can be maintained in suspension for all, or part, of the
tidal cycle by tidally driven turbulence because of their
low settling velocity. Although they usually represent only
a small fraction of water column mass, these particles have
a large surface area and act as adsorption hosts to various
natural and pollutant chemicals, which are consequently transported
with the sediment particles.
the species composition and population of the marine ecosystem.
In general, fine muddy sediments have a high content of organic
matter that can support a rich community of molluscs, worms
and crustaceans. Sandy sediments generally contain a fauna
adapted for life in a relatively mobile substrate. Crustaceans
dominate in reasonably stable sands and worms and bivalves
become more common in muddier sands (Hawkins and Cashmore,
1993). Very coarse gravelly or pebbly sediments are often
located in regions of very high currents and/or large waves,
with a resulting different assemblage.
Turbidity
also has an effect on the marine ecosystem - highly turbid
water may inhibit growth by reducing both the amount of
light available for photosynthesis (Dennison, 1987) and, in shallow
waters, the amount of dissolved oxygen, because the water becomes
warmer due to the absorption of heat from sunlight by the suspended
particles.
1.2
Sedimentary processes
The
concentration of suspended sediment in UK waters depends upon
a wide range of physical processes, and the
presence or absence of fine sediment. Suspended sediment concentration
(SSC) is the net result of the ‘erosion-transport-deposition
(ETD) cycle’. Sediment transport is initiated by the shear
stress imposed upon the bed by waves and currents, and transport
is predominantly brought about by advection due to a combination
of surge-, tide-, wave- and density-induced currents. SSC is thus
highly variable and at any one place can vary by more than one
order of magnitude over periods of minutes and hours. Further,
because in many cases the suspended sediment is derived from the
seabed, SSC can vary greatly vertically in the water column, and
spatially. Time-series data are thus essential to the effective
description and understanding of SSC and its variations, and associated
measurements of physical processes are vital in order to correctly
ascribe cause and effect.
Sedimentary processes are primarily influenced by the sediment
type and availability, and by the nature of currents and waves.
In a wave-dominated environment (such as an exposed coast or in
shallow water), waves will generally be the dominant mechanism
for resuspending sediment into the water column, and the sediment
is then transported by the current. In a current-dominated environment
(typically offshore deeper water or in an estuary) the currents
and waves may both be important stirring mechanisms, and again
the current transports the mobilised sediment.
Most types
and sizes of sediment grains are moved only when the waves and/or
currents are strong enough to exceed its threshold
of motion. For very fine grains, they will tend to be transported
at the same rate as the transporting fluid. In contrast, for sands
and gravel, once in motion under the action of currents, the rate
of transport is generally proportional to the third or fourth power
of ‘excess’ current speed or wave height (‘excess’ being
the magnitude above the grain threshold of motion). Hence, the
residual pathways of sediment transport may be very different to
the distribution of the residual current (Soulsby, 1997).
The transport
of suspended sediment is highly dependent on grain settling velocity.
Generally, the transport of slowly settling
particles is controlled by the residual circulation, but the transport
of faster settling particles occurs via a series of episodes of
resuspension from and settlement upon the sea bed, and therefore
is controlled by specific tidal, wind and wave conditions (Prandle
et al., 1993). For example, large bottom shear stresses induced
by tidal currents can drive the transport of larger particles along
the seabed (bedload) and induce the regular resuspension and transport
of the fine sediments in the water column. Asymmetry between ebb
and flood tidal currents can induce net sediment transport (‘Stokes
drift’) (Simpson, 2001).
Very fine sediments (clay-size grains) will generally remain suspended
in areas of strong tidal currents or significant wave action, but
there are some regions around the UK where they can be deposited
(such as the head of some estuaries). In contrast, silt-size particles
may be periodically deposited and resuspended over semi-diurnal
and monthly tidal cycles. In some cases, sand-sized particles may
only be transported over a small part of the semi-diurnal tidal
cycle (Prandle et al., 1993). Exceptions to these general rules
apply in near-coastal, near-frontal or highly stratified areas
where physical and biological processes can produce significant
variability on small temporal and spatial scales, e.g. the persistent
residual gyre observed in the Dover Strait (Prandle and Player,
1993; Prandle et al., 1993).
1.3
Measurement of suspended sediment and turbidity
The
measurement of suspended sediment and turbidity in situ involve
various techniques. The primary method of measurements is
using a device to measure optical back-scatter (OBS, often
referred to as a nephelometer), using either instantaneous
hand-held instruments of those which are pre-programmed to
take readings and are deployed on moorings or beneath buoys.
In these instruments, light is transmitted form the instrument
into the water column and some light is reflected back from
suspended particles and measured. Other instruments measure
the degree of transmittance of light between a transmitter
and receiver (a ‘Transmissometer’), assuming
that most of the loss en-route represent obscuration by particles.
Other instruments use the backscatter of sound (Acoustic
backscatter instrument and Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler)
to measure sediment and turbidity. All these instruments
require calibration to obtain a measure of suspended sediment
concentration (units are typically mg/l), which can be a
complex process containing many uncertainties. For example,
for the optical sensors, a number of factors have a significant
impact on instrument response. A change in grain size from
medium sands to fine silts may lead to a x100 increase in
instrument response; flocculation of fine particles may decrease
instrument response by x2; and the presence of plankton in
suspension may lead to poor instrument calibrations of SPM
concentration (Bunt et al., 1999).
Older-style
traditional methods such as ‘Secchi Disks’,
whilst easy to use, are of very limited use in comparing
datasets or in deriving information about sedimentary processes,
but may give some qualitative information on water clarity.
Some
measurements from remote sensing sources involve multi-channel
optical and
near-infrared radiometer observations (e.g. the satellite–borne
Advanced Very High Resolution Radiometer or the aircraft-borne
Compact Airborne Spectrographic Imager). In particular, there is
a relation between the concentration of near-surface SPM and the
brightness or reflectance of the sea, provided that allowance is
made for changes in absorption due to the concentration of phytoplankton
species (Bowers et al., 2002).
Descriptions of the monitoring networks that regularly measure
sediments and/or turbidity are given in the chapter on Monitoring
Networks, together with details of how to access archived and near
real-time data.
Click
here for a list of links to monitoring networks and data sets.
2. Sediments in UK waters
The relative importance of the factors influencing sediment concentration
and transport (sediment type and availability, currents and
waves, see section 1.2) varies across the UK continental shelf.
Generally speaking, currents tend to be more important offshore
(>10m water depth), whilst waves tend to be the more dominant
force in shallower nearshore areas (<10m water depth). The
character of the shelf seabed is also highly variable, depending
upon modern tidal and current patterns, and on the inherited
nature of the seafloor (i.e. past patterns of sediment accumulation).
Relatively shallow areas off southeast England give way to
deeper areas to the north of Flamborough Head and west of the
Isle of Wight. Sandy or gravelly areas occur in regions of
strong tidal currents in the Bristol Channel and the southern
North Sea. Finer sediments lie in areas where tidal currents
are weaker, such as off Plymouth and in parts of the Irish
Sea. Mobile sediments may be absent, and thus a rocky seabed
occurs, in many nearshore areas and in areas swept by strong
currents like the English Channel and near promontories of
the west coast of England and Wales (Defra, 2002).
Click here to
see a map of the broad-scale seabed sediment distribution in UK
waters, based on the BGS product DigSBS250.
At a scale
of tens of kilometres, the key feature of the offshore sediment
transport in UK waters is that the sediment transport
pathways tend to follow the large-scale orientation of the coast.
There are a number of areas of divergence of bed-sediment transport
paths (‘bedload partings’) and other areas of convergence
(Stride, 1982, Stride and Belderson, 1991). The locations of these
zones are subject to some temporal variation, especially when tidal
currents are modified by storm-generated currents. Divergences
occur where peak tidal currents are orientated in opposing directions,
where tidal current velocities (and hence shear stresses) also
tend to be high (Pingree and Griffiths, 1979). Zones of convergence,
where sediment transport pathways meet, occur in between zones
of divergence.
In contrast, the key features of nearshore sediment transport
paths in UK waters are governed more by the predominant wave directions,
which is from the northeast on the east coast and from the southwest
on the west coast. Sediment divergences or convergences occur where
there are significant changes in coastal orientation (e.g. headlands
or embayments) and onshore/offshore movements in localised areas
(especially major estuaries).
In some areas, where tides and wave forces are orientated in a
similar direction, nearshore and offshore sediment transport pathways
are aligned. In other areas, where tidal and wave forces are orientated
in different directions, the nearshore and offshore pathways may
run in opposite directions to each other.
Generally, mapped distributions of suspended sediment show highest
concentrations in coastal zones, related to sediment resuspension
from the seabed, river discharge and coastal erosion. In the coastal
zone, near-bed suspended sediment concentrations can be several
orders of magnitude larger during winter storms, compared with
calm summer conditions, because the associated surge- and wave-currents
enhance resuspension. These processes require ample availability
of fine sediments, and in some areas prevailing there is relatively
little fine sediment available to be resuspended during high energy
events, so that any increased turbidity results from temporary
resuspension of sand, and may be confined to the lower parts of
the water column. Exceptions to these general conclusions apply
in near coastal, near-frontal or highly stratified areas where
physical and biological processes can produce significant variability
in turbidity on small temporal and spatial scales; e.g. in persistent
residual gyres or coastally trapped river water (Charnock et al.,
1994), but it is important to separate the biogenic from the physical
causes of turbidity.
Within an estuary, the sediments are a complex mixture of particles
that have been brought down by the river or in from the sea. The
driving forces for sediment transport are variable on a number
of time-scales, ranging from the semi-diurnal tidal period through
to the spring-neap cycle, and to the seasonal, with additional
episodic transport events associated with storm surges and river
floods. On time periods of decades, some UK estuaries are relatively
close to a long-term equilibrium, with a large amount of sediment
transported on each tidal cycle, but relatively little of it either
imported (and accumulated) or exported to the shelf.
More
details are provided in a series of coastal maps produced in
the Futurecoast report (Defra, 2002), including seabed sediments
and an indication of the direction of movement of offshore sediment
(both suspended and bedload).
Click
here to see some representative maps. Figures of maps from
Futurecoast for some North Sea sections.
Click
on the image to see a series of satellite images of reflectance
at 555nm during 1998, closely related to SPM concentrations.
The images are NASA SeaWifs composites for the North Sea
1998 at a resolution of 1.1km [animated GIF, 1.4 MB. Or click
here to see still images.].
Courtesy
of NASA and PML Remote Sensing Group.
Click
on the image to see an animation of SPM for UK waters for
the year 1998. The scale is mg/l and the animation is based
on output of a numerical model. [AVI animation, 7.4 MB].
Courtesy
of Alex Souza, POL.
The North Sea has both southerly and northerly
offshore transport of sediment - northerly transport in the central
eastern regions of the southern North Sea, southerly transport
nearer the UK coast and several areas of variation in the northern
North Sea. Bedload divergences occur due to the interaction of
the different amphidromic points, with convergences in between.
There are relatively few published field datasets of turbidity
in the North Sea (exceptions include Jago and Bull, 2000). Historically,
as might be expected, there are low average Secchi depth values
(and hence high turbidity) in the southern North Sea (Aarup, 2002),
probably due to sediment resuspension by the strong tidal currents
(the data is available from http://www.ices.dk/ocean/project/secchi/).
The nearshore sediment transport pathways are predominantly southerly
on the N-S orientated sections and westerly on E-W orientated
sections (e.g. North Norfolk). Coastal and offshore transport
pathways are aligned where the tides and wave forces are orientated
in similar directions, i.e. southerly transport from St. Abbs
Head to Flamborough Head and around East Anglia on N-S orientated
coasts. From Flamborough Head to the Wash, the coastal and offshore
pathways run in opposite directions because tidal and wave forces
are orientated in different directions.
The main nearshore source of sediments are the eroding cliffs
on the East Anglian coastline and sediment transport divergences
occur at the mouth of the River Tees and Tyne, Sheringham (North
Norfolk), Clacton and at the North Foreland. The main offshore
divergences occur at North Sunderland, Cromer, within the Thames
Estuary and along a line from Dunwich to the Hoek of Holland. The
main nearshore convergences for sediment are the Tees estuary,
Humber estuary, the Wash, Stour and Orwell estuaries, the Thames
and south of Flamborough Head. The main offshore convergence is
off Flamborough Head. Onshore/offshore exchange occurs off North
Norfolk.
A
map showing seabed sediment transport indicators within the
SNS2 study area is available by selecting the link to Appendix
15 at http://www.sns2.org/projects-outputs.html .
2.2 English Channel and Celtic Sea, including the Bristol Channel
More
details are provided in a series of coastal maps produced in the
Futurecoast report (Defra, 2002), including seabed sediments
and an indication of the direction of movement of offshore sediment
(both suspended and bedload).
Click
here to see some representative maps. Figures of maps from
Futurecoast for some English Channel sections.
The
English Channel has both westerly and easterly offshore transport
of sediment. Bedload divergences occur near to the amphidromic
point off the Solent. The nearshore sediment transport is predominantly
easterly, with some reversals in the lee of headlands. Coastal
and offshore transport pathways are aligned where the tides and
wave forces are orientated in the same direction, i.e. easterly
transport in the eastern part of the Channel and westerly transport
in the very western part. In the central part of the Channel,
the coastal and offshore pathways run in opposite directions
because tidal and wave forces are orientated in different directions.
The main nearshore divergences occur at Selsey Bill, Portsmouth
Harbour, the Needles and Dungeness. The main offshore divergence
occurs from the south of the Isle of Wight to the Contentin Penisula.
The main nearshore convergences for sediment are near Ramsgate,
Dungeness, Ryde and the Isle of Wight. Additionally, minor divergences
and convergences are associated with each bay headland unit. The
main offshore convergence is along a line from Hythe/Dungeness
to Boulogne.
2.2.2 Celtic Sea including Bristol Channel
Details
of seabed sediments and an indication of the direction of movement
of offshore sediment (both suspended and bedload) are
provided in a series of coastal maps produced in the Futurecoast
report (Defra, 2002).
Click
here to see some representative maps. Figures of maps from
Futurecoast for some Celtic Sea and Bristol Channel sections.
The Celtic Sea has a variable offshore transport
of sediment. The nearshore sediment transport is predominantly
northerly on the N-S orientated coasts and easterly on E-W orientated
coasts. Off the northern coast of Devon and Cornwall, coastal and
offshore transport pathways run in opposite directions because
tidal and wave forces are orientated in different directions. Sand
moves westwards into the Celtic Sea in the outer and central Bristol
Channel (Harris, 1988).
Nearshore, the main nearshore divergences of sediment are in Barnstaple
Bay, along a line from Lavernock Point to Sand Bay (in the Bristol
Channel) and in Carmarthen Bay. Onshore/offshore exchange occurs
in the central portion of the Bristol Channel.
2.3
Irish Sea
Click
here to
see a figure of seabed sediments in the Irish Sea (from JNCC).
Further
details are provided in a series of coastal maps produced in
the Futurecoast report (Defra, 2002), including seabed sediments
and an indication of the direction of movement of offshore sediment
(both suspended and bedload).
Click
here to see some representative maps. Figures of maps from
Futurecoast for some Irish Sea sections.
Click
on the image to see a series of satellite images
of reflectance at 555nm during 1998, closely related to
SPM
concentrations.
The images are NASA
SeaWifs composites for the Irish Sea 1998 at
a resolution of 1.1km [animated GIF,
1.0 MB. Or click
here to
see still images.].
Courtesy
of NASA and PML Remote Sensing Group.
Click
on the image to see an animation of SPM for UK waters for
the year 1998. The scale is mg/l and the animation is based
on output of a numerical model. [AVI
animation,
7.4 MB].
Courtesy
of Alex Souza, POL.
Analysis
of satellite imagery by Bowers et al. (1998, 2002) shows the
presence of two separate turbidity maxima, one off Wicklow
Bay, the other off Anglesey. These areas correspond to the areas
of strongest tidal currents, and it is considered that the high
reflectance is produced by fine sediments maintained in suspension
throughout the water column by tidal stirring.
With respect to sea-bed sediments, the Irish Sea
has southerly and south-westerly offshore transport of sediment
on the North Wales coast south of the Lleyn Peninsula, but a northerly
and north-easterly offshore transport path north of the Lleyn Penisula
(Bardsey Sound). Bedload divergence occurs near to the amphidromic
point in the eastern Irish Sea.
The nearshore sediment transport pathway is predominantly northerly
on the N-S orientated sections of the coast and easterly on E-W
orientated sections. Coastal and offshore transport pathways are
aligned where the tides and wave forces are orientated in the same
direction, i.e. northerly transport to the north of North Wales.
Off the south and mid-Wales coast, the coastal and offshore pathways
run in opposite directions because tidal and wave forces are orientated
in different directions.
The
main nearshore divergences of sediments are off the Lleyn Penisula
(Bardsey Sound), off Anglesey, Formby and Bispham (Blackpool).
The main offshore divergences occur from Ireland to Bardsey Sound
and from Northern Ireland to Scotland. The main offshore convergences
are west and east/southeast of the Isle of Man, Liverpool Bay
and Morecambe Bay (DEFRA, 2002).
There
is evidence that turbidity water clarity in the Irish Sea deteriorated
between the mid 1960s and the late 1980s - the mean annual Secchi
depth in the Menai Straits decreased from around 2.3m to below
1.5m during that period (Lumb, 1990).
Using satellite reflectance imagery, White et
al. (2003) have shown that there was no overall trend in near-surface
turbidity between 1987 and 1997 in the Irish Sea, but that year-to-year
variability was positively correlated with changes in the mean
annual regional wind strength, controlled by the north-south atmospheric
pressure gradients and related to the NAO Index.
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